DIY Envy – Yes, You Can Sew!

Easy Sew Doll

When you see beautiful, natural cloth dolls, don’t you think “I wish I could sew”? You can! This soft baby doll with knotted hands and feet requires only the simplest of sewing stitches, and it will be done in an afternoon (or less).

If you aspire to make a Waldorf doll or a seasonal table covered in beautifully decorated gnomes, you can easily take that first step toward making your own dolls with just two simple stitches: a running stitch by hand and a straight stitch on a sewing machine. Or, you can skip the sewing machine and sew the whole thing by hand.

Why Make Natural Cloth Dolls

Babies, toddlers, and older children love dolls—soft, squishy dolls in warm, natural materials like cotton and wool. There are dolls that work well for every age. It can get expensive to buy more than one of these beautiful heirloom dolls, though, so you might want to learn to make dolls for your child.

This knotted baby doll is meant to be easy grabbed by a teething baby. Even now that they are older, though, both of my children want the dolls I make. They had to negotiate who could keep the doll you see in the photos below.

Finished knotted doll

Small Knotted Baby Doll Instructions

  • Scraps for doll body: 2 pieces 7″ square, 1 piece 5″ square, 1 piece 4″ x 2″ (OPTIONAL)
  • Scrap for doll head: 1 piece 5″ round
  • Hand-sewing needle
  • Thread
  • Small amount of wool or other material (even scraps) for stuffing
  • OPTIONAL: rice to add weight to the doll

There are a lot of options when you are making dolls. I will mark options and make suggestions for other choices.

This doll is small enough for baby hands but not so small that it can become a choking hazard. The shape is simple: two triangles and a round head with a tall, soft hat. The knotted hands and feet will give a teething baby a hard yet secure bump to rub against sore gums.

Time: 30-60 minutes. It took me 20 minutes to make this doll, including photo taking, but I make a lot of dolls. Plan an open afternoon to make it so you can finish in one sitting.

1. Cut pieces. You will need 2 7″-square pieces for the body, 1 5″-square piece for the hat, and one 5″-circle for the head.

OPTION: If you are going to add a rice bag, also cut a 4″ x 2″ piece or two 2″-square pieces.

OPTION: Thinner fabric works really well for a knotted dolls. Cotton bandanas are perfect.

2. Trim hat by folding the smaller square in half and cutting the open edge into a curve.

3. Sew hat seam and turn. Turn edges of body fabric and finish by sewing down the edge if you are using fabric that might unravel. If you are making the doll for a baby, just make sure that there won’t be stray threads that your chewing baby might swallow. Finishing helps prevent that.

OPTION: If you use materials that won’t unravel, like wool felt, you can sew visible stitches on the outside of the hat. Cotton embroidery thread looks nice and bold against solid color wool felt.

4. As you sew, taper the edges as you reach the corners that will be knotted. I stopped the turned edge about 1″ from the corners.

OPTION: I tapered the finishing at the corners that would be tied into the knots. You can also cut a piece of fabric that isn’t square but has longer corners to make knot tying easier.

Pieces for sewing an easy cloth dollCut hat for cloth doll
1. Four cut pieces2. Trim hat in a curve
Finished edges for doll bodyTapered corners for knot doll
3. Sew hat seam & turn edges4. Taper edges toward corners

Prep for Body

5. Look at your pieces. You can already see the shape of the doll coming together.

6. Cut neck hole by folding overbody piece corner to corner then corner to corner again in quarters. Cut a small, 1/4″ piece off the tip at the center of the square.

7. Make sure the hold is small. If you are in doubt, cut it quite small and check that you don’t have more than about a 1/2″ hold in the center of the piece.

8. If you are going to add a rice bag, sew together 3 of 4 edges of the smallest squares. It doesn’t matter if you put pattern in or out, since you are going to enclose the rice bag in the doll.

OPTION: Many homemade cloth dolls are made with a heart-shaped charm at the center. In the baby dolls for my children, I sewed gems inside small heart shapes. I also put rice bags in the lower part of the doll (the doll’s bottom) to help the doll sit.

Doll piecesCut neck hole for doll
Appreciate your work!Cut neck hole
Neck hole for doll 
The neck hole 

Rice Bag

9. Open the small square.

10. Pour rice in small square. Don’t add too much rice. You want the doll’s body to be squeezable. Also, you need to have plenty of room to sew up the last edge.

11. Sew last edge of rice bag. I just push the rice to one side and use a straight stitch on the sewing machine. I also rounded the corners slightly because I wanted the body not to have any corners poking out.

12. Check the size of your rice bag against the body. It should fit corner to bottom edge with a little bit of edge left to sew the body together.

Open rice bagPour rice into rice bag
Open bagPour in rice
Rice bag for a dollRice bag for doll
Finished rice bagRice bag fits body

Finish Body

13. Sew lines on underbody to create a square that will fit the rice bag.

14. Wrap rice bag in a thin layer of wool to give the body some softness.

15. Stuff rice bag into square space in body.

16. Sew up each edge of underbody to enclose rice bag and stuffing.

OPTION: You can easily make a knotted doll without a stuffed body. I wanted a doll that would be easy for a baby to grab, but this doll is much easier to make without the body steps.

17. Finished underbody will fit into overbody with the point through the neck hole.

18. The underbody won’t show other than the legs.

Sew square into doll bodyWrap rice bag in wool
Sew body squareWrap rice bag
Stuff doll bodySew up doll body
Stuff rice bag into bodyEnclose body
Doll body piecesDoll body together
Underbody through neckDoll body takes shape


19. Cut head fabric using a compact disc. It’s a perfect size for this doll. Anything round that is 4.5″-5″ across will do. For this head, I used old swatches from a friend who owns an organic fabric store. She didn’t need them anymore, and I knew they would be a great size for doll heads. This whole doll is made from scraps.

OPTION: This is the step that I simplified for a first doll. A Waldorf doll has a shaped head with chubby baby cheeks. This is created by sewing and shaping over a thin gauze then adding the top layer of skin. It isn’t particularly difficult, but there are many steps to learn when making a Waldorf doll head. Learn them! These heads make beautiful little faces for your dolls. For now, though, a ball of wool in a circle will make a fine head.

20. Wind the wool in a tight ball to make the core of the head. Take small pieces of wool and wind around many times to get a round shape.

OPTION: If you use scraps, still wind them in a tight ball to give shape to the head.

21. Place wool ball in enter of head fabric and wrap the circle of fabric around the wool tightly enough to keep it from unraveling.

OPTION: You could also stitch around the head fabric 1/2″-3/4″ from the edge with a long running stitch (a basting stitch) then pull the thread to gather the head fabric around the wool core. I like the other way because I can adjust to the size of the ball, which does change a bit with every doll.

22. Wrap thread around the neck. I went around 5-6 times very tightly then tied a knot with the two ends. This doesn’t have to look great, but it does have to hold tight.

Cut doll headWool for doll head
Cut doll headWind wool for head
Wool in fabric circle for doll headWrap doll neck
Wool in head fabricWind thread around neck

Attach Head

23. The neck on the head fits through the neck hole on the body. Just gather the flared ends of the head from the right side of the body.

24. Push the neck ends through the neck hole toward the wrong side of the fabric. The head needs to be on the bright, right side of the fabric.

25. Sew the body to the head from the wrong side of the body. I try to stay as close as possible to the neck about 1/8″ away from the neck hole. I’ve shown here just a simple running stitch: poke the needle through body fabric and head fabric close to neck, grab 1/16″ of the fabric then poke back up, skip 1/16″ from the top then take another stitch.

OPTION: If you are using a fabric that won’t unravel, make sure the neck hole is a tidy circle, and just take a visible stitch from the right side. A bold blanket stitch looks very nice.

26. Sew all around the neck hole and tie off securely.

Doll head fits into bodyDoll head fits through neck
Head into bodyHead through neck
Sew doll body to headSew around doll neck
Sew close to tied-off neckRunning stitch to attach head


27. Place the underbody inside the overbody. The long edge of the under body will be the doll’s legs. The point of the stuffed diamond touches the neck where you just sewed it through. You should be able to pin the overbody edge at the sewn lines along the stuffed portion of the underbody. Sew along those same lines.

OPTION: You can also choose just to secure the overbody at the point. This leaves a more open doll.

28. Pull hat onto head with the long, curved seam in the back. The seam should touch the edge of the body at the back with the edge angling toward the forehead. You can pin if the hat seems like it might slip off one side while you are sewing the other

29. Sew hat to head with another simple running stitch that takes 1/16″ from the head then 1/16″ from the hat. This will be a mostly invisible stitch.

OPTION: Whether or not you have an unraveling fabric, you can also use visible stitches to attach the hat. Anything from a simple blanket stitch to more fancy embroidery stitches will cover up the edge.

30. Doll finished but for knotted hands and feet.

31. Tie knots in points to create hands and feet.

OPTION: You could decide to stop at this point and leave the doll without knots.

Sew doll body togetherPin hat onto doll head
Sew bodyPin hat
Sew hat to doll headDoll nearly finished
Sew hatAlmost finished
Finished knotted doll


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Getting Started with Reusable Menstrual Products

Garbage from tampons wastes money

If you use cloth diapers for your babies and if you are looking for waste-free, reusable products in the rest of your life, it’s a natural next step to keep the change coming and use cloth menstrual pads or a diva cup. Getting started is easy.

The quickest way to start: borrow your baby’s diaper doublers and see how easy it is. Toss them in with the diapers, and wash.

What You Need to Start

If you don’t mind sharing diaper doublers with your baby, it really is easy to start.

Just be sure that you have

  1. something absorbent,
  2. somewhere to put them until you wash, and
  3. something to carry them in while you travel.

The simple solution includes items that can be borrowed from cloth diaper accessories or improvised from supplies you already have.

  1. wash cloths
  2. diaper pail
  3. small wet bag

The more advanced solution includes buying or making new supplies.

  1. specially made menstrual pads
  2. a bucket or soaking pot that can hold water
  3. a bag for your purse

Menstrual Pads. A lot of people want a leak-proof layer, but I just don’t find this necessary. It’s one more place for laminated (plastic-coated) fabric or micro-fiber that just isn’t necessary. All you need is absorbency. Natural materials work best, and anything absorbent will do. Our wool diaper doublers are just the right size for cloth pads. If you sew, you may find that some of your scraps are just the right size for cloth pads, which is a great way to divert more materials from waste.

Menstrual Cup. Rather than using an absorbent layer, you can use a cup instead of tampons. This is such an easy solution. The Diva Cup, for example, is medical-grade silicone—latex-free means no allergic reactions. It can be worn for up to 12 hours. I think it still helps to wear a light pad.

Natural Sponges. If you are used to tampons, you might find natural sponges a good alternative. You can even sew a string into them to help pull them out. You just rinse well, following instructions to be sure that they are clean, let them dry, and reuse.

Panty Liner. My favorite light pad or panty liner is a silk diaper liner. The liner is very thin, soft next to the skin, and just enough of a barrier.

Bucket or Pot. An ice bucket works really well. I have a pedal garbage can (with a removable liner) because I have a dog who is a thief. My favorite solution is one I don’t currently have: a ceramic pot that is actually made for cloth pads. I’ve seen some gorgeous ceramic pots, and I hope I own one before I don’t need it any longer.

Planet Wise Mini Wet Bag

Wet Bag. Any small wet bag will do. Many wet bags are made of nylon. I have used a wool bag as well, which is very absorbent and doesn’t leak through. My new favorite bag, though, is the Planet Wise mini wet/dry bag because it has two zippered pockets, one for dry and waterproof one for wet. This is a perfect size to fit in a purse.

Reusable menstrual products are an economical and environmentally-friendly choice. With cloth menstrual pads and menstrual cups you also enjoy safe, chemical-free protection. Once you give these a try, you’ll never go back to paper, plastic, and gel pads or bleached tampons again.

Pregnancy by Nature carries a full line of reusable menstrual products.

More Resources for Reusable Menstrual Products

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DIY Envy – Yes, You Can Knit!

Knit cotton washcloth

Have you ever thought, when your friends share great projects, “I wish I could knit”? You can! I have devised the simplest knitting project you are ever going to meet to help you knit a reusable cotton washcloth.

Like the best of punk music and country music: all you need is a red guitar, three chords, and the truth. In this case, all you need to make a profoundly useful and sustainable kitchen tool is cotton yarn, needles, three stitches, and a desire to make it yourself.

There are a lot more than three stitches in all of the fancy sweaters you see, and you will probably want to learn several more ways to do each of these stitches, but one way is enough for now. Just press on, and you will be wiping up with your own handiwork within hours.

Why Make Wash Cloths?

Knitters need to knit. Once you catch the bug, you will be looking for more and more projects to knit. Knitting your own washcloths keeps those knitting hands busy, but it also saves you money and lets you create exactly the color and style of cloths that you want to use. If you were looking for the right time to replace paper towels with reusable cloths, this is a quick and easy way to do it yourself. Plus, when people say, “Where did you get these great cloths?” you can then talk to them about your new hobby: knitting.

My mother made all of our wash cloths, and I’m still using those same cloths 30 years later. These are some of my very old kitchen cloths.

Old knit washcloths

1. A popcorn pattern that is good for scrubbing
2 & 3. A flatter pattern that absorbs well
4 & 5. A nubby pattern that I think is the easiest to grip. I grab these first.

The Super Easy Pattern for a Knit Cotton Wash Cloth

  • One skein of cotton yarn (Pictured is Lion Cotton Worsted Weight because that is what my local store carries.)
  • Needles, size 7
  • Tapestry needle

Cast on 40 stitches. Work every row knit (no purl), creating garter stitch. Knit until the whole piece is square then bind off and sew in ends.

That’s it! This sample took me about an hour and a half to finish.

Handmade knit cotton wash cloth

There are a lot of fancy ways to make cloths with special stitches or crocheted edges, but I think plain garter stitch works best.

If you are new to knitting, I hope these photos will help.

Cast On
Single Cast on (or backward loop cast on) is the simplest cast on. It isn’t elegant or fancy, but it is a fine way to start. There are many better ways to get this job done. You can think about those later.
Make a simple slip knot
Make a simple slip knotLoop for simple knit cast onMake a simple slip knot
Slip knot on knitting needle
Put the slip knot on your needle and pull it tight (though not too tight)
Yarn through fingers for tension
To keep tension steady, thread the yarn through your fingers.
Yarn ready for knit cast on
Turn your hand palm facing you
Cast On, finish
Backward loop knit cast on
Slip your needle up your finger to get the stitch on the needle
Simple knit cast on
And, you have your first stitch
Knitting cast on stitches
Repeat until you have 40 stitches on the needle
Knit Stitch

When I taught my children to knit, I used this simple rhyme to help them remember the steps to a knit stitch. It’s a common knitting teaching tool. Under the fence, catch the sheep, back we come, off we leap. Note: in the photos, my daughter knits holding the yarn in her right hand. I knit holding the yarn in my left hand (continental style). Either works. Do what feels most comfortable.

Beginning of knit stitch
Under the fence. Stick your right needle into the bottom of the first stitch on your left needle
Wrap yarn for knit stitch
Catch the sheep. Wrap your yarn around the right needle from the back, around the left and to the front
Pull knit stitch through loop
Back we come. Using your right needle, pull the yarn you just wrapped back through the first loop
Finish knit stitch
Off we leap. Pull the loop all of the way through then off. That’s your first knit stitch. Repeat to the end of the row, turn, and knit the next row the same way
Bind Off

In this simple bind off, all you do is pass each loop over the next to give a finished appearance like a chain. It isn’t stretchy at all. You can learn many other binding off techniques that give your knitting more stretch, but this basic technique will serve you well.

Ready for bind off
Knit the first two stitches on your last row
Knitting bind off
Stick your left needle into the first loop on the right needle
Bind off knitting
Pull the first loop over the second loop
One stitch bound off
Now you have just one loop left, so knit another stitch and repeat until you have one stitch left on your right needle

Once you finish knitting, you have just two tails to sew in for a tidy finish. I like to use a tapestry needle for this, but you can also use a crochet hook if you already have one.

The last knit stitch
Knit until the last stitch is on your right needle
Pull the last loop long
Pull the last loop until it is 3-4″ long
Clip long loop
Clip the loop and pull the rest of your skein of yarn out of the loop
Wash cloth with tails
You have a nearly finished wash cloth
Finishing, sewing in Tails
Sew in knit ends
To hide your tails, sew into the loops of one row down from your binding
Sew knit ends into cloth
Pull the threaded tapestry needle through the stitches
Pull cloth edge
Stretch the edge of the cloth
Stretch edge of wash cloth
Stretch the edge a bit more to lose the tail completely


There are a lot of yarn stores online, but you probably have a local shop. Go there and talk to the owner. Ask about yarn. Ask about favorite needles. Ask about classes. Ask about knit nights. My local yarn shop has a late open night every Thursday where a dozen or so people sit around a table knitting, snacking, and just talking. You don’t get that shopping online, so find a local yarn store.

My favorite knitting site is Tech Knitting because the illustrations are absolutely clear (and often colorful). There is a lot of information on Tech Knitting, so check the index. As an example, this is the cast-on that I most often use.

When you become addicted and need a community, consider joining Ravelry, where you will find patterns, a personal notebook where you can record your stash and your projects, discussion groups, and friends.

My mother taught me to knit when I was 3 years old. I have been knitting steadily ever since. My husband and I talked about our favorite knitting yarns the first time we met. My mother knit my wedding shawl—a wedding ring shawl, it is called, because it is so fine that it can be pulled through a wedding ring. (I tried. It did work.) My husband, my mother, my mother-in-law, my baby, and I trekked to a knitting conference together to give the grandmothers a good excuse to spend time with their new granddaughter when she was very tiny. I taught my children to knit when they were small. Now, when we read school books aloud to one another, two of us knit while the other reads. (“Would you like to read now?” one asks. “Let me finish my row,” says everyone else.) I inherited a huge double cedar closet full of yarn, and we often, as we say, “go shopping” in my mother’s yarn closet. Currently, I am knitting dolls, my husband is swatching a new sweater, my 15-year old daughter is knitting a sweater from a 1939 pattern she tracked down after seeing it online, and my 12-year old son is knitting a cabled sweater. We are a knitting family.

I hope you have a great experience knitting this simple wash cloth. Even after all of the very complex knitting that I’ve done over the years, I loved knitting this simple piece. Let me know if you have questions.

Thanks to my daughter, the knitting hand model.

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Books That Support You in Your Pregnancy

Sacred Pregnancy book

Let’s start with the assumption that pregnancy is amazing. If you are pregnant right now and you haven’t taken time yet today to remember that, just pause. Close your eyes and breathe. Feel your belly and your baby and remind yourself how amazing pregnancy is.

As told to me by a midwife I knew well during my pregnancy, Jeannine Parvati Baker, “Most women stop giving birth just when they get good at it.”

Love every minute you can, and surround yourself with those who will remind you live in the moment because this phase of your life passes very quickly.

You don’t need yet another mainstream voice telling you that pregnancy is anything but amazing. The fact that your body is building a human being outweighs the petty discomforts of pregnancy—most of the time. Yes, take care of yourself. Better yet, get your partner to take care of you. You deserve all of the pampering you can get right now. So, support your bellymoisturize your skin as it stretches, and grab a cup of nutritious tea because I want you to sit down with those comforting voices that will remind you to enjoy your pregnancy.

These are a few books you can count on to trust and empower you as a pregnant woman.

Sacred Pregnancy
Annie Daulter

Sacred Pregnancy book by Anni Daulter

Sacred Pregnancy by Anni Daulter offers mothers-to-be the kind of spiritual, emotional guidebook they have hoped for in their special journey of pregnancy. With generous journaling space, key practical advice, inspiring photography and thoughtful contributions from leaders in midwifery and childbirth such as Ina May Gaskin and Anna Getty, this book touches on every personal milestone of the full gestation period of a pregnancy.

Each week the mother-to-be is given specific, helpful information on her baby, her body, and her spirit, and is asked to reflect on these via the topic of the week, which touches on such issues as sexuality, fears about labour, becoming a mother, courage, rite of passage, adornment, body image, meditation, and sisterhood, to name a few. Sacred Pregnancy is not only a grounding companion through the pregnancy and childbirth process, but can be a precious and beautiful keepsake for a mother’s unique birth story, a gift to share down the road. Sacred Pregnancy includes a large resource section on various birthing options and support for pregnancy women.

Review by Ricki Lake, actress, and Abby Epstein, filmmaker, The Business of Being Born: “Pregnancy is such an amazing time in a woman’s life and should be honoured and valued. Sacred Pregnancy helps empower women and encourages them to personall reflect on their internal process before having children. This is a beautiful gift to all pregnant women!”

Review by Mayim Bialik, actress and author of Beyond the Sling:
“I wish I had read Sacred Pregnancy when I was pregnant instead of the dozen books I had to piece together to try to make sense of it all. Anni Daulter has created what should be the new standard for today’s mom: birth journals, labour workbooks, pregnancy memoirs, and holistic wisdom. It is gentle and enlightening, and lays the foundation for what we know helps women have the labour and birth they want and deserve: support, self-knowledge, and empowerment.”

The Birth Book by Dr. Sears
William Sears, M.D., and Martha Sears, R.N.

The Birth Book by Dr Sears

The Birth Book by Dr. Sears is a comprehensive, reassuring, and authoritative guide to childbirth. It is rich in information as well as inspiration that enables you to plan and create the birth you want.

Since women enjoy more birthing options today than ever before, the path toward a safe and satisfying birth can be fraught with important decisions. Planning, understanding the resources available to you, as well as developing your own birthing philosophy can make all the difference. This book explores the abundant choices couples face when anticipating the birth of their child.

Review from NOM, a customer:
“I was scared of birth, so I wanted a book that was not going to terrify me with horror stories (like “What to Expect When You’re Expecting”). This book was amazing. I learned a lot of essential things, and the language used was positive and reassuring. The authors definitely have the mentality that birth is an amazing experience that every woman CAN do WITHOUT interventions. I loved that.”

Ina May’s Guide to Childbirth
Ina May Gaskin

Ina May's Guide to Childbirth

Drawing upon her thirty-plus years of experience, Ina May Gaskin, the nation’s leading midwife, shares the benefits and joys of natural childbirth by showing women how to trust in the ancient wisdom of their bodies for a healthy and fulfilling birthing experience. Based on the female-centered Midwifery Model of Care, Ina May’s Guide to Natural Childbirth gives expectant mothers comprehensive information on everything from the all-important mind-body connection to how to give birth without technological intervention.

Ina May’s Guide to Natural Childbirth takes the fear out of childbirth by restoring women’s faith in their own natural power to give birth with more ease, less pain, and less medical intervention.

We know we can’t compete with megabookstores at, and we don’t try. What we do is choose carefully the few books that we offer, so you know that our books will support you in your desire to parent naturally.

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DIY Envy – Yes, You Can Make Soap!

Homemade DIY soap

Have you seen soft, milky homemade soap and thought, “I wish I could do that”? You can! The simplest of homemade soap is very easy to make because all you do is melt the base soap, add the fragrance or color you want, and pour the soap into molds. That is why this is called melt and pour soap, and this is the simplest of introductions to this simplest soapmaking.

Some will tell you this isn’t really making soap, and they’re right. You aren’t making soap from scratch, but ignore them anyway. You’re just dipping in to see if you might want to learn more. This is just the beginning.

Why Make Soap?

If all you are doing is melting soap that is already made, why would you want to make your own soap?

Savings. You can save a lot of money. Depending on the ingredients you choose and how fancy you make it, it will probably cost you $.50-$1.00 per bar of soap. If you are trying to save money, this is one more little way to squeeze a few dollars from your monthly budget. It is only a few dollars, though, so saving money isn’t usually the first reason one thinks of to make soap.

Health is an even better reason to make your own homemade soap. Replace mystery ingredients and chemicals with whole, natural ingredients like olive oil and goat’s milk. Especially if you have sensitivities or allergies to chemicals commonly included in cosmetics, making your own soap can be a way to soothe your skin.

Taste and style are easy to match when you add your own color, scent, and texture.

The best reason to make your own soap is just the pure DIY (do-it-yourself) joy of it. It feels great to make something useful, healthy, and beautiful for yourself and your family.

The Process

Basic melt and pour soap couldn’t be easier. You buy a base, melt it, add a little fragrance or color, add texture (like oatmeal for soft skin or salt to exfoliate), pour into a mold, let it cool, then cut.

You will need base soap, fragrance and color (optional), a double boiler, a stirrer (a wooden spoon will work), and a mold. A glass thermometer will also help, and you may already have that for candy making. You may also want to wear gloves. Some molds require lining. You can use parchment or butcher paper to line a square mold, so there is no plastic required.

Look for a base soap that you like. If you can buy it in person, that’s even better because you can touch and smell it to get a better idea of what is available. Olive oil and hemp seed oil soaps will moisturize. Aloe vera and honey are soothing and healing. You will have plenty of choices for natural soap bases.

When you are ready, bring the water in your double boiler to a boil then turn it to low. Cut your soap base into small cubes and add to the top pan. Stir occasionally, and be patient. It takes a while to melt.

Once the base soap is melted, add fragrance oil or essential oil. You can add food coloring, including natural, powdered food coloring like turmeric for a bit of yellow, beet powder for rich red, spirulina powder for green, or cocoa for a light brown. These won’t add scent to the soap, so you are adding it more for the mild color or decorative effect.

It is fun to make clear soap for kids by adding bright colors and little toys. Notice: I wrote “for kids” not “with kids.” More on that below.

When your soap is melted and your fragrance and color is added, pour into a mold. A juice box coated with a light layer of oil makes a great size for a small bar of soap. You can tear your mold off the soap and send it on to the recycling bin after you are done. If you don’t get juice or milk in cartons, you can buy silicon molds fairly inexpensively, and you can make your own beautiful wooden mold quite easily. Try soap making before you jump in and make your own mold, but this is a great way to bring the spirit of DIY to your future soap making obsession.

Let your soap fully dry. If you were making soap from scratch, you would need to wait weeks for your soap to cure, but simple melt and pour soap just needs to cool and dry.

Caution: whenever you melt soap, it is very hot and can be dangerous. Only use with children when you know they won’t grab for it or distract you. That probably means only making soap with much older children. Especially for your first batch, make soap when your children are not around.


Once you are hooked and confident with melt and pour soap, try cold processed soap making. This is real soap making. You use lye (caustic soda, sodium hydroxide) in the process of saponification, a chemical reaction in which the fats or oils react with the lye to create soap. You need to leave this soap to cure anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months depending on the ingredients you use. You will need more soap making and more safety equipment to make even basic cold processed soap, so melt and pour is a good way to try out soap making to see if you want to invest more time and money.

Don’t have DIY envy anymore. You can make your own simple homemade soap.

Image © Alla Shcherbak |

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